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When assembling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate familiar award-winning venues. However, situated high among these food giants is a modest salonu located in a far-flung area of north London.

An Shocking Honour

The little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. The recognition has left the owners totally astonished.

“I am totally astonished,” remarks a proprietor, alluding to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their humble shop earning such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has retained much of its former character. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the fare, and this restaurant definitely excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in less syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, toastier and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is bound to echo beyond its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this culinary triumph.